Japan Castle Explorer: December 2014

Shingu Castle

-Castle with river port at traditional town-

Overview

Name: Shingu castle (Shingu-jo)
Alias: Tankaku-jo (Crane castle), Okimi-jo (Ocean watching castle)
Place: Shingu Shingu city, Wakayama

Location: 33.73013422511407, 135.9929174409208
Type: Hill Castle
Built: 1633
Remnants: Stone walls and dry moats
Title: 100 more famous Japanese castles

Brief History

Shingu castle (新宮城) is located at Tankakuyama hill, one of 50 meter height beside the mouth of Kumanogawa river in Shingu city. Kumanogawa river is a long river flows from south part of Nara prefecture to Shingu city through mountainous area, and used to float lumbers produced at upstream forestry area such as Yoshino area or Totsugawa area.

Shingu city has a good port at the mouth of the river and prospered as a loading port of these lumbers, then became the center of Kumano area (southeast coast of Wakayama prefecture). Shingu city is also known as a legend that Xu Fu, a Taoism sorcerer who was ordered to search elixir of life by Shi Huang of Chinese Qin dynasty, drifted to this area at his expedition and died at this place.

History of Kumano shrines and Kumano area

In Kumano area Kumano Sanzan (three shrines of Kumano area) were adored from ancient era. Kumano Sanzan consist of Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine (Tanabe city), Kumamo Nachi Taisha shrine (Nachi Katsuura town) and Kumano Hayatama Taisha shrine (Shingu city), and many highness, soldiers and people made pilgrimage to these shrines from all over Kinki region.

Mountainous roads connected these shrines, and Shingu city was one of the core of these road because it has Kumano Hayatama Taisha shrine in the city and a ferry port to Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine by Kumanogawa river. Today these shrines and connecting roads are nominated as World Heritage.

In medieval era, due to a poor agricultural production and good port, people of Kumano area activated as naval force called as "Kumano Suigun". Kumano naval force participated in the battle between Taira clan and Minamoto clan, and contributed to the victory of Yoritomo Minamoto (1147-1199) who established Kamakura Shogunate. In Muromachi era, Shingu area was governed by Shingu clan, which was said as descendant of Yukuiie Minamoto (1141-1186, called as Shingu Jyuro). But later Shingu clan lost their power and Horinouchi clan became the lord of this area.

In 16th century, Ujiyoshi Horinouchi (1549-1615) subordinated to central ruler Nobunaga Oda (1534-1582) and expanded their territory to current Owase area. When next ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi (1537-1598) invaded to Kii country, Ujiyoshi at first resisted to Toyotomi army but later surrendered, then Ujiyoshi continuously managed Shingu area under Toyotomi government. Ujiyoshi built his residence at west part of current Shingu city.

After the death of Hideyoshi, an conflict between Ieyasu Tokugawa (1543-1616), the largest lord under Toyotomi government and Mitsunari Ishida (1560-1600), former chief magistrate of Hideyoshi. Ujiyoshi supported Mitsunari but Mitsunari was defeated at the battle of Sekigahara by Ieyasu in 1600, then Ujiyoshi was expelled and lost his territory.

Build of Shingu castle

Subsequent the battle of Sekigahara, Yukinaga Asano (1576-1623) was appointed as the governor of Kii country (Wakayama prefecture). As Kumano area was far distant from their main castle Wakayama castle (Wakayama city), Yukinaga started to build their branch castle at Tankakuyama hill in 1601. The construction of castle was once cancelled based on Ikkoku Ichijo Rei (one domain one castle rule) published in 1616, but later was resumed.

In 1619, Asano clan moved to Aki province (Hiroshima prefecture) then Yorihobu Tokugawa (1602-1671), the 10th son of Ieyasu Tokugawa, became the lord of Kii province and established Kishu domain. Kishu domain was one of the three special relative domain of Edo Shogunate along with Owari domain and Mito domain, then chief retainers were directly appointed by Edo Shogunate and they were approved to have their own castle.

At Kishu domain Ando clan and Mizuno clan were nominated as chief retainers, and the former had Tanabe castle (Tanabe city) and the latter held Shingu castle. Mizuno clan further continued the construction of the castle and finally completed in 1633.

Structure of Shingu castle

Shingu castle is built at U shaped hill, and hilltop areas spread along the ridge. The central area is a rectangle shaped area of 50 meter long and 30 meter width locates at the east half of the hill, and there were main tower and attached tower at the south edge of the area. Entrance to central area is protected by folding paths go through several terraces guarded by tall stone walls, and at the edge of this side there was an outer fort separated by dry moat.

At the saddle point there is Kanenomaru area, the largest area of the castle. Below the Kanenomaru area there is Matsunomaru area, and main gate is built at the edge of Matsunomaru area. Gate to Matsunomaru area and Kanenomaru area are also a complex gate with folding path. All walls of these areas are covered by stone walls, and many projection are made to erase dead angles. The shape of Shingu castle with winding line along with the terrain preserves the style of Toyotomi period, and probably keeps original plan of Asano period.

At the backside of the hill faces Kumanogawa river, there was a large water port called as Mizunote area. This area is about 50 meter long square, and consist of several terraces built by stone walls, and slope from river side to each terraces. As Mizuno clan treated lumbers and charcoals produced at Kumano area and gain profits, then warehouses to keep these items were built at this area, just behind of the castle. Remaining ruin of river port attached to the castle is very rare and it is valuable.

Afterward of the castle

Mizuno clan kept Shingu area along with Kishu domain, and subsequent to Meiji revolution Shingu castle was abolished. Today all building were lost but beautiful stone walls still remain on the hill. Combination of modern Shingu castle and old Shingu Hayatama Taisha shrine just at the north of the castle shows unchanged importance and tradition of Kumanogawa river and Kumano area. Even though not a large castle and located at distant place, beautiful and magnificent stone walls faces the blue river is worth for visiting.

Access

15 minutes walk from JR West/Central Kisei Honsen line Shingu station. 60 minutes drive from Kisei Jidoshado Expressway Owase-Kita interchange.

Video

Pictures (click to enlarge)

Akagi Castle

-Toyotomi period castle remains in deep mountain-

Overview

Name: Akagi castle (Akagi-jo)
Alias:
Place: Akagi Kiwa-cho Kumano city, Mie

Location: 33.89576614330346, 135.95059564182412
Type: Hill Castle
Built: 1586
Remaining remnants: Stone walls and clay walls
Title:

Brief History

Akagi castle (赤木城) is located in Akagi area at the western part of Kumano city. Akagi area is a small basin in deep inland of Kii mountain, at the middle of the route connects Kitayama village and Ise route of Kumano-Kaido road, which was the pilgrim road to Kumano Hongu shrine from Ise province via Kumano city. Near the castle there is "Maruyama Senmaida", which is the layer of over one thousand terraces of rice field spread over the steep slope.

History of Kumano area

Kumano area is located at southeast shore of Kii peninsula. Being surrounded by steep mountains, this area had been isolated from political center of Kii country (Wakayama prefecture) and Ise country (Mie prefecture), and was a kind of extraterritorial area. In medieval era, people at seashore of this area activated as naval force called as "Kumano Suigun", utilizing good ports at ria coast and abundant wood produced in backside mountain. On the other hand, in mountain side there were small local lords and mountain priests, and lived by agriculture and forestry.

In March 1585, central ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi (1537-1598) started his campaign against Kii country, mainly for Saika party and monk solider of Negoro temple. By the end of march Toyotomi army captured current Wakayama city area, and further advanced to southwest area of Kii peninsula such as Arita city. Yukawa clan which was the largest clan of this area fiercely resisted to Toyotomi army, but after the half year battle Yukawa clan surrendered.

Revolt of local people and build of Akagi castle

At the same time, Toyotomi army came into Kumano area. Horiuchi clan, the leader of naval force at Shingu castle, had already connection with central government through trade and mercenary, thus subordinated to Hideyoshi and kept their territory. On the other hand, lords of mountainous area also belonged to Hideyoshi, and Kii country was finally held by Toyotomi government. Hideyoshi left Kii country to his trustable younger brother Hidenaga Toyotomi (1540-1591), along with Yamato country (Nara prefecture).

But local people who hated the strict ruling of central government and repeatedly revolted to Toyotomi government. In 1586, large revolt by local warriors called as "Kitayama Ikki" occurred, and thousands of people occupied the area. In response to this, to show the authority of Toyotomi government and keep the production of woods as strategic resource, Hidenaga made thorough oppression to this rebellion by 1589 and executed the leaders.

After the suppression of rebellion, Hidenaga placed his most trustable general Takatora Todo (1556-1630) as a magistrate of this area. Takatora had to manage non obedient local people of this area with small soldiers, especially at his absence due to participation of military actions of Hidenaga. To keep the castle long period with small soldiers, Takatora built a small but secure castle with latest technology and named it as Akagi castle.

Structure of Akagi castle

Akagi castle was built at a small hill of 50 meter height from the hillside. Central area is a 40 meter long square at the top of the hill, and a complex gate was built at the southeast edge, Two ridges spread from hilltop to southeast ward and southwest ward, then terraces were built along these two ridges. Edge of these terraces were guarded by stone walls, and paths from hillside were exposed the attack from upper terrace.

At the valley surrounded by these two ridges there are large terraces, might be used as a residence of commander. Backside of central area is protected by 3 meter tall stone walls, one of the highest one of this castle. Stone walls of this castle are not so high but used effectively, and structure of main entrance of central area seems powerful and functional. Even though small castle of 200 meter long and 100 meter wide, this castle matches to the name of Takatora Todo who was later known as master of castle building and built many famous castles such as Uwajima castle, Imabari castle or Tsu castle.

Afterward of area and castle

Takatora reigned this area about 10 years from this castle, but in 1595 Takatora was appointed as a commander of Uwajima castle (Ehime prefecture) and left this castle. Akagi castle might be abolished at this time or soon later that, as this castle kept the original style of old style Toyotomi castles.

In 1600, after the battle of Sekigahara, Asano clan was appointed as the governor of Kii country, and placed tighter controls for local retainers. In 1614, local lords of Kitayama area made revolt again against Asano clan when Asano army left the company to participate in the battle of Osaka castle in 1614, but rebellion army was thoroughly suppressed by returned Asano army, and this place became stabilized.

The ruin of Akagi castle was certainly destructed in early Edo era, but recently the site was prospected, and stone walls of the castle was restored based on the result of excavation. Akagi castle is quite valuable as a rare and complete example of small Toyotomi period castle, and basic element of Toyotomi castles such as blocking by stone wall and approach by folding path is clearly seen. Although it locates at far distant area　and is difficult to approach, but it is recommended to visit along with Shingu castle if possible.